Jomalig, Philippines: Exploring A Hidden Paradise In The Pacific

Jomalig Island, Quezon, Philippines — Jomalig (pronunciation: huːmaliːg or HOO-mah-leeg) is an island in the northeastern part of the Philippines which forms part of the Polillo Islands. It is a rural municipality with an economy that relies heavily on fishing and agriculture. But what it lacks in economic development, it more than makes up for its stunning beaches and idyllic sceneries.

When we arrived at the area, my jaw dropped. It felt like I just walked into Mars. It was surreal.

Jomalig Overview

Before we go into details, here’s an interesting history (or legend) about Jomalig Island:

There was a Datu who lived in island and had a beautiful daughter. A young man from a neighboring island wanted to marry the princess but Datu didn’t agree with it. The Datu said that he will only give his daughter if the young man can roam the island in just one day and successfully shoot three fishes in every pond on the island. The young man took the Datu’s challenge. After he roamed the island, he almost finished the marathon, but in the end, failed to do so because he nearly died. He arrived at the finish line hopelessly and at this point, he requested the princess to kiss him as the only reward he could receive. The people in island witnessed what happened she kissed the young man and they shouted: “humalik” (They kissed). From that time on, the people on the island named the island “Humalik”. Many years passed and the Humalik become Jomalig.

History of Jomalig

I had been hearing about Jomalig Island for some time before I went there. I was hesitant at first because the travel time would be at least nine hours, assuming there is no traffic and the oceans are calm. My friends and I randomly planned a quick weekend getaway roughly around a week prior. I have to say, witnessing Jomalig in its purest is one of the most beautiful experiences I’ve had. It’s more than worth every hour spent getting there. Here are a few things you need to know about Jomalig:

Geography: Jomalig is a fifth-class municipality in the eastern part of Quezon province. At around 56 square kilometers, it is five times the size of Boracay Island. It’s a bit further than Balesin, a posh vacation spot for the rich and famous. A secluded rural island, it is an ideal vacation spot to escape the crowd.
Culture: Locals rely heavily on agriculture and fishing for their livelihood. Ethnically, the residents have similarities to residents from the Bicol region.
Language: Most locals speak Tagalog (or Filipino, the country’s official language), Bicolano (the regional language), and basic English.
Flights: The three major airlines in the country don’t have flights to Jomalig but the island has an airstrip which means you can arrange an air charter (if you have the money to burn).
Transportation: If you are coming from Metro Manila, you can ride a van or Raymond Bus in Legarda Street, Sampaloc, Manila going to Ungos Port in Real, Quezon. From the port, the island can be reached through a five to six-hour boat ride. Motorcycles are the major means of transportation on the island. They use it to go around on narrow roads suitable only for motorcycles.
Activities & Attractions: Jomalig has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. From white sand to golden beaches, you’d be surprised at how a small place can contain so much beauty. Inland are scenic rolling hills adorned with endless coconut trees. Given the remoteness of the area, the nightlife is almost nonexistent.
Food: Jomalig is not a gastronomic destination. But expect your host to prepare home-cooked fresh seafood. There are small stores around the island where you can buy basic food and drinks.
Hotel & Accommodation: Accommodation is usually cottage-style rooms by the beach, costing around 350 to 500 pesos per night. Camping is generally prohibited to keep the island clean. Electricity is available from 1:00 PM to 5:00 AM. Most houses have solar panels to supply electricity during the day.
Tourists: Mostly locals, I’ve never seen a single foreigner on the island during my visit.
Cellular Network: The cellular phone signal is quite good in Jomalig. I’ve got 3G on my Globe cellphone which allowed me to browse YouTube videos. Some areas during the island tour have intermittent reception.

Best Time To Visit Jomalig

Peak Season: February to April, the waves are generally calm during these months and are the driest months of the year, however, expect the island to be crowded especially during the holy week.

Shoulder Season: December to January, May to June, these are the months when it’s best to check the weather forecast. I recommend visiting around June if the forecast is good since there will be fewer tourists.

Off-Peak Season: July to November, the average rainfall is at its peak during these months. Sea transport tends to get canceled when the weather is rough.

Jomalig Map & Location

Transportation To Jomalig

If you are living outside the province of Quezon, then the first thing you need to do is find transportation from your area to Ungos Port in Real, Quezon. In our case, we are coming from Metro Manila. We went to Raymond Bus in Legarda, Sampaloc, Manila around midnight to catch the 1:00 AM bus. Buses regularly travel to Infanta & Real between 11:00 PM and 1:00 AM. However, according to the bus teller on duty, the next trip would be at around 4:00 AM. We did not want to risk missing the boat to Jomalig so we decided to look for a van around the area. Fortunately, there was a van terminal just a block away from the bus terminal.

We left Manila at around 1:00 AM. It was surprisingly a comfortable ride, I was able to get a good sleep. We arrived at Ungos Port at around 4:30 AM. The place whiffs of good old morning bakery bread. We bought some pandesal (a local Filipino bread) and instant coffee from a vendor just beside the port. Afterward, we went on to board our boat. It was larger than the usual boat you use when you go on an island hopping. I was told it was a cargo boat. The lower front would contain all the cargo and the lower back and upper deck would be for passengers. Here’s a piece of advice: you will want to stay on the upper deck because the air circulates freely and you will be able to lie down and sleep during the five-hour sea travel. To be able to get a good spot, be early.

When we boarded the boat, I was surprised to find that there were already at least fifteen passengers on the upper deck. The majority are tourists like us who came from outside of Quezon Province. Still, we were able to find a good spot. We laid down, chatted with each other, and got some sporadic sleep. The boat left at 9:00 AM because they were waiting for passengers. Be patient with this situation since only one or two boats are scheduled in a day.

The sea was relatively calm when we left Real. Halfway through the trip, I woke up to a heavy rocking motion of the boat. It was raining and the waves were huge! I plugged in my earphones and watched the ferocious sea, which ironically, is quite relaxing. Just a couple of hours before we reached Jomalig, the boat crew served Adobo and rice for lunch. It was a simple but enjoyable meal. It tasted good and reminded me of my childhood in the province.

I got excited when I saw an island from afar. I knew it was Jomalig because of the golden shores. We arrived somewhere around 3:30 PM. Upon arrival, we paid a 170 pesos environmental fee per head. Our host at Elnora Beach Resort has arranged motorcycle transfers. They were waiting for us when we arrived. The drive from the port to our place took roughly ten to fifteen minutes.

Where To Stay In Jomalig

The majority of accommodations in Jomalig are homestays. I found our hotel Elnora Beach Resort (formerly Ella Beach Resort) through Facebook. Here’s a tip when you are looking for a hotel near the beach, aside from googling photos, look up its location on Google Maps. It will put into perspective if you are near the beach and establishments or if it has a nice beachfront.

★★★★★ Elnora Beach Resort
📅 Check Rates & Availability
We had a cottage, which was good for five people. It costs 500 pesos per night for three people. It has a nice golden sand beachfront and a porch where you can eat or just chill. The sleeping room was sufficient and had an electric fan, pillows, blankets, and a comfortable sleeping mattress. However, do bring towels since they are not included in the package. They also served our meals at 100 pesos per head.

Classification	Price Range Per Night
Budget Accommodation	USD 10 to 20
Mid Range Accommodation	NA
Luxury Accommodation	NA

Things To Do & Places To Visit In Jomalig

Check the list below of things to do and places to visit.

Sunset Watching & Beach Bumming

After checking in and settling down into our accommodation, the first thing we did was enjoy the stunning beachfront of Elnora Beach Resort and watch the sunset. I cannot put into words how beautiful the golden beaches of Jomalig are. I’ve seen nothing like it in the country. What elevates it further is the seawater, it has a turquoise-teal tinge to it. It is most beautiful when the waves carve and smooth out the shoreline. Swimming is also ideal since the underwater is just sand. There are no seaweeds, stones, or corals to disrupt you. It was a beautiful afternoon, even if the sun was somewhat hiding.

At supper, our host served us fish and squid. It was so good! I could never get the same meal for 100 pesos in the Metro or any other well-established tourist spot in the country. After dinner, one of my friends watched Gifted & Ghost in the Shell on my laptop while the rest of us tagged along since we had already seen both movies. We watched and ate some junk food while chatting about random stuff. It was a wonderful night.

Island Tour

We woke up to a beautiful sunrise the following day. I was so happy to see the sky so clear because the sun had been elusive for the past couple of days. Our host served us the usual eggs, corned beef, and hotdog for breakfast along with coffee and malt. She also arranged for three motorcycles for the island tour at 600 per person. It was good until sundown or around 5:00 PM and they toured us at our own pace.

Puno Ng Walang Forever

Truth be told, I was in awe of Jomalig’s in-land as much as their beaches. There are rolling hills of grass, coconut trees, and pine trees. It’s almost like Batanes. After around fifteen minutes of motorcycle ride, they brought us to a solitary tree in the middle of a lush grassland. They call the tree “Puno Ng Walang Forever” (tree of no forever).

We snapped some pictures and tried to climb the tree. Just be careful when climbing, there are large ants, and the trunk and stems have thorns.

Sadong Golden Beach (Golden Sands)

Just a few minutes from Puno Ng Walang Forever is the Sadong Golden Beach, or commonly known as Golden Sands. It is one of the main attractions on the island. It is best visited during low tide so you can see the golden sands in all their glory. The sands, at close up, are actually like miniature round pebbles. There are also otherworldly pitch-black rock formations that I felt were ancient (like they predate humans).

When we arrived at the area, my jaw dropped. It was low tide and there were no other tourists in the area. It felt like I just walked into Mars a la The Martian or the Namib. It was surreal. I was grateful to witness such beauty. One of my favorite spots in Jomalig.

Lingayen Cove Beach (Little Batanes)

I truly enjoyed the ride going to Little Batanes. The scenery was stunning. There were rolling hills of grassland with tall coconut trees then the next thing you know, you are on a cliff road overlooking an expansive white beach below.

Little Batanes, as the name implies, is Jomalig’s version of Batanes. It has a rocky hill that overlooks the sea. On one side is a small white beach cove that resembles Kelingking Beach in Bali, Indonesia. On the side is a long stretch of pristine white beach ideal for swimming. There’s an entrance fee of 50 pesos per head.

We took some extremely photogenic pictures on the cliff which reminded me a little of the promotional photos for the movie Pride & Prejudice. It was so beautiful, I would have spent at least a half-day in the area if only we had more time.

Pamana White Beach Resort (Little Boracay)

Little Boracay is Jomalig’s version of a famous vacation spot, Boracay Island. If I am not mistaken, this place is managed by Pamana Beach Resort. There’s an entrance fee of 30 pesos per head.

Before you reach the shoreline are several coconut trees with hammocks and tables, an area for eating and relaxation. The coastline is a blinding white in contrast to the golden hue of Sadong Golden Beach.

We bought some drinks and rested on the hammocks. There was a small but extremely photogenic boat by the beach which we used as a prop for our picture-taking.

Kanaway Beach

Kanaway Beach is a larger version of Golden Sands with a less vibrant shade of gold. There’s an entrance fee of 50 pesos per head.

Going to the beach felt like walking into a beautiful desolate wasteland on another planet, similar to Star Wars and Mad Max. Those Pitch black rock formations are present again, one even formed like a giant turtle and another looks like it came straight out of Game of Thrones. The water from the river formed small streams on the sand which went directly into the sea.

Sand Bar

Our next stop was the Sand Bar. On our way to it, we passed by a beautiful white beach that turned our heads. It was the whitest white beach I had seen. I wish we stopped by but according to our guides, it was private property.

The sand bar has pure powdery white sand. Kalanggaman Island‘s sand bar might form a more scenic hook shape but the sands on this sand bar are finer.

Salibungot Beach

Salibungot Beach is the beach in the famous Jomalig postcard shot. It’s also where the “I ❤ Jomalig” sign is located. The beach is just around a couple of kilometers away from where we stayed so it has the same fine golden sands with teal-turquoise beach water.

When we arrived, we were greeted by a cluster of pine trees. I don’t know if it is endemic in the area or they were just planted but it was a beautiful view. I mean, how many beaches have you seen with pine trees on the shoreline instead of coconut trees? The beach is clean, devoid of seaweed, stones, or corals which makes it ideal for swimming. Another stunning place.

We went back to our hotel around 1:30 in the afternoon. Our kind host served us fish cuisine with coconut milk. After lunch, we rested for a couple of hours and then immediately went back to the beach. We stayed there until dusk. We had pork sinigang (sour broth) and a huge grilled squid for dinner. I still can’t wrap my mind around how cheap the meals are, they probably have to do with cheap seafood in Jomalig. My friend decided to watch movies again before we went to sleep. We watched Alien: Covenant and Passengers.

Itinerary & Budget

This is just a sample itinerary and budget. Change things up based on your travel style or vacation needs.

Itinerary For Jomalig

Jomalig Island itinerary can be straightforward since there’s a singular method of transportation, tours, and accommodation (unless the municipality finds itself in an economic boom, then things might change). If you plan on surfing, then you need to bring your gear since there are no surfboards for rent on the island. A three-day, two-night vacation is okay if you’re going for the weekend but I’d recommend one more day of just chilling at the beach.

Day	Activities
Day 1: Arrival	Land Transport to Ungos Port
	Sea Transport to Jomalig Island
	Sunset Watching & Beach Bumming
Day 2: Island Tour	Puno Ng Walang Forever
	Sadong Golden Beach (Golden Sands)
	Little Batanes
	Little Boracay
	Kanaway Beach
	Sand Bar
	Salibungot Beach
	Sunset Watching & Beach Bumming
Day 3: Beach	Swim & Chill
Day 4: Going Home	Sea Transport to Ungos Port
	Land Transport from Quezon Province

Budget For Jomalig

The estimates below are in American Dollars and Philippine Pesos and the exchange rates are based on the closing rates at the time of posting. To convert to your home currency, visit this site. The transportation cost assumes that you are from Manila and booking budget accommodation. There is no ATM on the island so bring enough cash. Jomalig is a budget-friendly destination. The amounts presented below already have enough legroom.

4-Day Budget	USD	PHP
Airfare	0	0
Accommodation	30	1,500
Food, Drinks, & Alcohol	30	1,500
Entrance & Activity Fees	6	300
Transportation	26	1,300
Tour Guide & Vehicle Rental	12	600
Random Costs & Souvenirs	20	1,000
Total	$124	₱6,200

Final Thoughts

On our last day, I woke up with great energy but with a little sadness. I wish we had at least a day more. Our host served us a delicious farewell meal: huge crabs and grilled fish! The crabs were so good.

We packed our things and had a final stroll on the beach. The waves were huge but the sun shone brightly. We went to the port at 9:00 AM, however, the boat left at around 10:00 AM. Due to the strong waves, it took us six to seven hours on the sea. We arrived safely at Real around 6:00 PM. We looked for a place to eat before heading to the van terminal. There were exactly three seats left so our van left immediately as soon as we boarded the vehicle. At 11:00 PM, we were back in the Metro.

In retrospect, going to Jomalig was one of the best travel decisions I made. It’s worth every hour spent on the long land and sea journey. It’s a place of beauty and simplicity. Hands down, one of the most beautiful islands in the country. It can hold itself well against established destinations like Palawan, Cebu, and Boracay.

Part of me wants people to discover the place and be stunned by its charm but another part of me hopes it stays tucked away, hidden from the opportunistic exploits of capitalism. Because you know, humans tend to abuse nature. I guess it’s a good thing the island is not that accessible.

★★★★☆ Food
Cheap but excellent meals and fresh seafood! A rustic food experience.

★☆☆☆☆ Culture
No cultural tourism but they have at least five town fiestas from April to June.

★★★★★ Nature
One of the most beautiful islands in the country, from its coasts to its rolling hills.

★★★★★ Beach, Surfing, & Underwater
White and gold beaches that rival the world-famous beaches in the country. According to Surfing Waves, the waves in Jomalig are 5-star beach break waves with advanced surfer difficulty (the famous surfing spot in Baler has 3-star beach break waves with beginner surfer difficulty). There are some nice snorkeling spots around the island.

☆☆☆☆☆ Nightlife
No nightlife but you can buy beer and alcohol from the local stores and have a drinking session with your friends. And did I mention how gorgeous the Milky Way is at night?

★★★★☆ Relaxation
There’s nothing more relaxing than gorgeous beaches and rolling hills on a secluded island away from the city.

★★★☆☆ Activities
Mostly beach and nature-related activities. The remoteness of the island makes it less accessible to most tourists.

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