Chiang Mai, Thailand: Rose Of The North, A Travel Guide

Chiang Mai, Thailand — Chiang Mai is the capital of Chiang Mai Province and the largest city in Northern Thailand. Surrounded by sprawling national parks combined with the unique culture of Lanna Kingdom and contemporary artistic vibe, it’s no surprise that the region attracts millions of tourists worldwide. If I could live anywhere in Thailand, it would be in Chiang Mai.

It’s hard to explain the Chiang Mai experience. It’s authentic, charming, laid-back, and exciting all at the same time. You need to see it for yourself!

Chiang Mai Overview

I didn’t know anything about Chiang Mai before this trip. Everything I learned came from reading blogs and articles. But after my extensive research about the region, my excitement level was a notch higher than it was going into Bangkok. And to experience Chiang Mai in flesh, from its vibe, cuisine, history, arts, and culture, all I can say is that it went above and beyond any of my expectations.

• Geography: Chiang Mai is the largest city in Northern Thailand. Rather than a highly urbanized area, think of it as a massive village. The city’s engineering and vibe is somewhat comparable to Yogyakarta.
• Culture: Chiang Mai is an amalgamation of ancient Lanna Kingdom, multi-ethnic community, Buddhist traditions, regional influences from neighboring countries, and the enthusiasm of modern world. All of these make the region’s culture a unique experience.
• Language: Keep your English very simple, most Thais do not speak English. It may sound rude but try to imitate how they speak English. Learning a few Thai phrases can also be helpful. Aside from Thai, older inhabitants of Chiang Mai also speak a regional Lanna language.
• Flights: Direct flights to Chiang Mai include Bangkok, Phuket, Krabi, and other major Asian cities. If no direct flights from your location, then the easiest and cheapest way is a connecting flight via Bangkok.
• Transportation: Chiang Mai can also be accessed by train from Bangkok. Despite longer travel time, it is a very comfortable and fun experience. Uber or GrabCar is the most convenient way to go around the city. It’s cheap and it eliminates miscommunication with the driver regarding your destination. However, for tours in the outskirts of the city, I suggest hiring a private vehicle or a motorcycle.
• Activities & Attractions: Chiang Mai feels a bit more laidback in terms of activities compared to a hectic Bangkok. Aside from the usual temples and weekend bazaars, there are various national parks around the area such as Doi Inthanon National Park and Doi Pui-Doi Suthep National Park which can be visited through organized tours, car rentals, or motorcycle rentals. Hill tribe tourism is also common where you can interact with the local tribesmen and learn about their culture.
• Food: There are countless places to dine, from street vendors and local favorites to hipster cafes and weekend bazaars. The usual Thai cuisine characteristics are still present but I noticed that the flavors are a bit more subtle when compared to the more explosive flavors of Bangkok.
• Hotel & Accommodation: There are countless inexpensive and luxury locations in Chiang Mai. Even during peak season, I didn’t have difficulty finding a nice place. Accommodation is also relatively cheaper when compared to Bangkok. Use booking sites such as Agoda or Airbnb to easily browse properties.
• Tourists: A lot of foreign toursists in the area such as backpackers from Europe and USA and groups of Chinese in an organized tour.
• Cellular Network: They have free Wi-Fi at almost every establishments like airports, cafes, and hotels. You can also buy a seven-day mobile internet for 300 Baht at the airport. If you have the cash to burn, avail unlimited data roaming (for Philippine telecom providers, Globe PHP 599 per day / Smart PHP 550 per day). Unfortunately, all our phones are SIM-locked since we are on mobile plans so we had to rely on free Wi-Fi and data roaming. If you’re from the Philippines, you can buy an international SIM from Travel SIM PH.

Best Time To Visit Chiang Mai

• Peak Season: November to April, cooler and drier weather. These are the best months to visit Chiang Mai, however, expect a huge influx of tourists and higher accommodation rates. Loi Krathong Festival where thousands of sky lanterns are launched into the air happens every Novemeber and Song Kran which is the traditional Thai New Year happens every April.
• Off-Peak Season: May to October, rainy season. Best accommodation deals and least crowd but rain can become intense.

Chiang Mai Map & Location

Where To Eat & Drink In Chiang Mai

★★★★☆ Cafe De ThaanAoan
A nice cafe with a combination of Western and Thai menus.

★★★★★ Sunday Night Market Walking Street
Street food paradise on a road that stretches for eternity.

★★★★★ Paak Dang
A little bit pricier than most cafes but they have excellent food and service. The dining area also overlooks the Mae Rim River.

★★★☆☆ 7-11
As mentioned in my Bangkok guide, 7-11 meals are decent. The store is very convenient if you are on a tight budget or if you are too lazy to look for a place to eat.

★★★★☆ Starbucks
There were a couple of unique offerings but everything is your usual Starbucks menu.

Meal Type	Average Spend Per Person
Café, Snack	USD 1 to 4
Fast Food, Casual Dining	USD 2 to 5
Premium Casual, Fine Dining, Buffet	USD 5 to 30
Beer Per Bottle	USD 2 to 4
Cocktail Per Serving	USD 4 to 8
Wine Per Glass	USD 6 to 10
Spirit Per Bottle	USD 16 to 30

Flight To Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) is an international airport in Chiang Mai city. It is a major hub in Northern Thailand and currently the fourth-busiest airport in the country. A one-way flight from Bangkok usually costs around PHP 1,500 to PHP 3,000 and takes around an hour.

There are direct flights from other hubs in Thailand such as Bangkok, Krabi, and Phuket and several other Asian cities in China, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, and Malaysia. If no direct flights from your location, then fly first to Bangkok then Bangkok to Chiang Mai (you can check Google Flights for your preferred schedule and airline).

Point Of Origin	Estimated Flight Hours
Manila, Philippines	6 Hours, Connecting / With Layover
Singapore, Singapore	5 Hours, Connecting / With Layover
Dubai, UAE	10 Hours, Connecting / With Layover
London, UK	20 Hours, Connecting / With Layover
New York, USA	30 Hours, Connecting / With Layover
Los Angeles, USA	28 Hours, Connecting / With Layover
Sydney, Australia	15 Hours, Connecting / With Layover

Train To Chiang Mai

As mentioned in my Bangkok guide, one should experience at least once a sleeper train in Thailand, preferably the ones going into Chiang Mai. The train from Bangkok usually departs from Hua Lamphong Train Station. It’s a 13-hour journey but it’s extremely comfortable. The one-way price per head is at 700 to 800 Baht for a 2nd class sleeper air-conditioned train, depending on whether you choose upper or lower berth (upper berth is cheaper but lower berth has a window view).

For this booking, we ended up paying around 1000 Baht per head due to booking fees. 2nd class is cheaper than 1st class and it’s already very comfortable. They serve decent food and drinks on the train, around 70 Baht per meal and 50 Baht for the drinks (I’d recommend the iced caramel milk). The amenities and interior are clean and well-maintained.

After hours of comfortable sleep, we woke up at around past five in the morning. I immediately went to my friend on the lower berth to look at the view. The view of mountains, trees, temples, and red-orange sunrise was some of the most beautiful mornings I’ve experienced — it felt peaceful. Maybe it has something to do with the shade of the sun which was soft and warm. We arrived at Chiang Mai train station around seven in the morning. The place was teeming with backpackers. You can feel the energy and excitement around.

Where To Stay In Chiang Mai

As the accommodation base for tourists exploring Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai has countless accommodation establishments — from budget hostels to luxury resorts. It doesn’t matter where you are staying in the city, most organized tours will pick you up from your hotel. The city is also quite easy to navigate and there is no traffic (at least based on our experience). If you have the money to burn, try the more luxurious hotels in the outskirts of the city. Use booking platforms such as Agoda or Airbnb to check prices and availability. Check out some recommended accommodations below.

★★★★★ Joe’s Hostel (Check Rates)
Joe’s Hostel is a ten-minute drive from the airport. Lucky for us, we were the only guests and we have the entire building to ourselves. The place is clean, modern, and worth every amount we paid. It has a nice living room and dining area where you can interact with other guests (had there been some). Value for money and excellent location!

★★★★★ Four Seasons Resort (Check Rates)
The Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai is half an hour drive from the airport. It has Lanna-styled pavilions that overlook terraced rice fields and the mountains of the beautiful Mae Rim Valley. Antique shops and art galleries are just a short walk from the resort. The resort has an infinity-edge pool that overlooks the property’s rice paddies.

★★★★★ Phra Singh Village (Check Rates)
Phra Singh Village is well-placed within the cultural, sightseeing area of Chiang Mai City. It is 2.5 km away from the airport, has great amenities, and the rooms have a rustic interior.

★★★★★ The Inside House (Check Rates)
The Inside House is another conveniently located property in Chiang Mai City with great facilities.

★★★★★ Na Nirand Romantic Boutique Resort (Check Rates)
Na Nirand Romantic Boutique Resort is a five-star boutique hotel located just a few blocks from the old city. It has a nice outdoor pool.

★★★★★ Raya Heritage (Check Rates)
Located on the banks of the river Ping, Raya Heritage is fifteen minutes drive from the center. They provide shuttle service several times daily to the city center. All of the rooms are decorated with warm touches of traditional textiles, artifacts wood carvings, all handcrafted by local artisans.

★★★★★ Montira’s Cottage Mae Kampong (Check Rates)
Montira’s Cottage Mae Kampong is located in a peaceful lush coffee farm, surrounded by magnificent rainforests. It is around an hour’s drive from the airport.

★★★★★ Panviman Chiangmai Spa Resort (Check Rates)
Panviman Chiangmai Spa Resort is highly regarded as one of the premier luxury hotels in Chiang Mai. It is popular among corporate travelers and high-end holidaymakers. It is an hour’s drive from Chiang Mai center. Watch the elephants at work in the Maesa Elephant Camp, take a stroll in the Queen Sirikit Royal Botany Garden, and stop by the Maesa Waterfall, all situated close to the hotel.

Classification	Price Range Per Night
Budget Accommodation	USD 2 to 10
Mid Range Accommodation	USD 30 to 80
Luxury Accommodation	USD 100 to 400

Things To Do & Places To Visit

Chiang Mai feels a bit more laidback in terms of activities compared to a hectic Bangkok. Unlike Bangkok where you can almost do the majority of your activities as “do-it-yourself,” Chiang Mai requires a bit more of a “properly organized tour” to maximize your time. Most vehicle rentals already include a driver/tour guide who can help you with your itinerary. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also rent a motorcycle and visit destinations at your own free will.

Tha Phae Gate

Tha Phae Gate is the entrance to the old city. There are lots of pigeons in the area. Locals are also selling food so you can attract more pigeons if you want to take pictures. It’s a nice start to a Chiang Mai adventure.

Wat Phan On

After a photo-op at Tha Phae Gate, you can walk into the old city and visit whatever temple you stumble upon. The first temple, which is near the entrance, could be Wat Phan On. It is one of the smaller temples in the old city. It was built in 1501 by a Lanna king. Admission is free but you can always give some donations.

Upon entering the complex, our eyes were immediately glued to the beautiful golden chedi. It’s still the usual bell-shaped chedi but its edges are geometrically patterned. I think it is one of the most stunning chedis I’ve seen in Chiang Mai.

The wiharn, or shrine hall where people pray and important Buddha images are housed, is a large two-story hall. It has golden columns, a well-lit altar that contains the golden Buddha, and a red carpet that starts at the entrance and ends at the altar’s foot. After looking around the temple, my friends bought some souvenirs at a shop beside the wiharn.

Wat Inthakin Sadue Muang

Our next stop was supposed to be Wat Phan Tao, but we walked by this small but uniquely black temple called Wat Inthakin Sadue Muang. It is hard not to notice because of its black and gold exterior and the decorations outside were very festive. The temple’s name, Wat Sadue Muang, means “temple of the city navel” which is an allusion to its location in the center of town where it was constructed over 700 years ago.

Wat Phan Tao

The next temple we visited was Wat Phan Tao. It is particularly unique because of its all-wood wiharn, one of the few remaining structures of its kind in Chiang Mai.

The interior is made of wood which gives a native feel. This temple personifies what I had in mind when I think of an old rural Buddhist temple. They also have a red chedi at the back but unfortunately, it was under maintenance (or repainting).

Wat Chedi Luang

The last temple we visited inside the old city is one of the most beautiful temples we saw. My friends and I agreed that it is how we picture an ancient, historical Buddhist temple. Wat Chedi Luang is a large complex that was originally made up of three temples.

Wat Chedi Luang translates to “temple of the big stupa” or “temple of the royal stupa.” True enough, the huge chedi at the center of the complex was a sight to behold. It looks ruined but it adds to the charm – it’s like being transported back in time to the old Lanna Kingdom.

Around the “royal stupa” are various beautiful wiharns. The ornamentation and design of the temples’ exterior look like they were carefully made by highly skilled craftsmen.

Cafe De ThaanAoan

After a productive temple-hopping around the old city, we decided to check out the cafes for lunch. While walking, we saw a street vendor who sells freshly squeezed orange juice. I don’t know if we were just thirsty at that time but it was the best fruit juice we tasted anywhere in Thailand.

A little walk from the street vendor and we saw a chic-looking place called Café DeThaanAoan. We bought some Pad Thai, Spring Rolls, Sticky Mango Rice, and others (I can’t recall). It was a good dining experience. After lunch, we went back to our accommodation to prepare for our next activity.

Doi Suthep–Pui National Park Tour

Our next activity was an hour away from the city of Chiang Mai. Most of the beautiful places you can see in the north require you to drive an hour or two to the outskirts. There are a lot of agencies that offer cheap tour services.

For our trip, we hired a vehicle with a driver to take us to our desired destination. We used the services of Chiang Mai Specialist, also known as Wandering Star Tour. You can message them on their Facebook page for inquiries or you can check their vehicle rental packages here. The transaction was very smooth. The SUV selected was is in excellent condition and the driver assigned to us was punctual and hospitable. Overall, it was a very comfortable ride.

We availed of two car rental packages from them. The first one is a half-day (4-hour) tour to Doi Suthep, which includes a visit to Hmong Village and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The cost is around 1,800 Baht including fuel for four people. (Take note that additional hours that you incur outside of the agreed time would cost you 300 Baht per hour, so be punctual with whatever pick-up time you’ve agreed with the agency)

The driver arrived around 1:00 PM in our hostel, the agreed pick-up time. We immediately dashed into the SUV (a nice one) and went on with the drive (around an hour). One moment we were on city highways, and then next we were going up the mountains. For the record, Doi Suthep rises at an elevation of 5,499 feet so it gives you a nice view of the city from the windows of your vehicle.

Hmong Tribal Village

Our first stop in the afternoon is Hmong Tribal Village. Hmong is an ethnic group from the mountainous regions of Thailand and its neighboring countries. The entrance fee is 20 Baht per person. You’ll arrive at a place that looks like a large souvenir market and then you’ll climb to the top of the village. As we climbed, we passed through small museums, exhibits, and shops. The most memorable thing we did was probably trying to shoot banana blossoms with a tribal arrow. It was super fun!

The view at the top of the village was breathtaking. You could see the village houses and mountains and colorful flower beds everywhere! There are also children in ethnic costume whom you can take pictures with (it’s not for free, we gave 40 Baht).

There’s a café at the top where we decided to chill for a while. I ordered their iced milk with honey which I highly recommend. We stayed for around twenty minutes before going back to our vehicle. On our way down, a nice Thai man gave us a free taste of local wine. It tasted really good, looking back now I wish I bought a bottle.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, or simply Doi Suthep, is one of the most beautiful temples I’ve seen in Thailand. It is a Theravada temple with a striking golden exterior. What makes it even more majestic is the fact that it sits at the top of a mountain.

The entrance fee is 50 Baht if you are going to use the lift or 20 Baht if you’re going to use the stairs. We decided to use the lift going up and then the stairs going down. At the top, the golden temple is glowing against the heat of the sun. The view from above is heavenly even though there was a visible haze.

We walked around and inspected the temple grounds for more than an hour before going down. On our way down, we took pictures with some kids in traditional costume – I paid them 50 Baht. There were food stalls at the foot of the temple where we decided to eat. My friend even bought some of Thailand’s infamous insect food, which isn’t that bad. It just has a weird texture.

Sunday Night Market Walking Street

After we arrived at our hotel from Doi Suthep, we rested for a couple of hours. Our next stop is the Sunday Night Market Walking Street, which happens every Sunday. At The Pae Gate, we were greeted by a woman in full Thai costume doing the classical Thai dance. Once inside the walls, our senses feasted on all the colorful stalls of different local goods and the bustle of the crowd. It was amazing!

There are lots of countless things you can buy from the bazaar, but our favorite? The food section. It’s another Khao San Road / Khlong Lat Mayom without the river and boats. We jumped from one stall to another, buying anything that captured our attention. There was this one street food (I don’t know its name) that looked like small white seafood balls and it was smothered in a very spicy sauce and lots of celery. I loved it so much, I had two servings. We also bought a bag of crispy pork (their version of Philippine’s chicharron). It was so good, we didn’t need any dip – definitely giving chicharron a run for its money.

We realized how big the bazaar was only after we walked around. We saw artists, ready to draw you in charcoal or pencil at a price. There were also some street performers which added a hip feel to the ambiance.

Everything about Sunday Night Market Walking Street is so cool. It’s something that anyone should experience when going to Chiang Mai, so make sure your visit includes a Sunday.

Doi Inthanon National Park Tour

Our day five is a whole day tour at Doi Inthanon National Park. Doi Inthanon is Thailand’s highest peak with an elevation of 8,415 feet.

For this trip, we had the same car rental we used for Doi Suthep. We were picked up at 5:00 AM because the travel time to Doi Inthanon is around two hours. One of my friends bought breakfast at the nearby 7-11 so we just ate inside the car.

The Highest Point

Our first destination was the Highest Point. More than an hour into the drive, we woke up to chilly weather high above the mountains. The view with the sun and the trees was so captivating.

We stopped at a checkpoint where we had to pay a 300 Baht entrance fee per head. There was a woman who sold us some large green mangoes, less than a hundred baht per piece. We bought one and ate it later at the Hostel. We didn’t realize before how good it tasted, we would have bought at least five pieces.

After a few minutes from the checkpoint, we arrived at a place that looks like an observatory or something. When our driver opened the car, a gush of very cold wind came rushing inside. It was so cold, the temperature was around six degrees Celsius. We walked some fifteen to twenty minutes trail to get to the highest spot. We took some pictures and went to Ang Ka Nature Trail.

Ang Ka Nature Trail

Ang Ka Nature Trail gives you a closer look into the flora and fauna of Doi Inthanon. Boardwalks were constructed for safety and ease of going around. The forest looks very healthy, the barks of the trees and even the boardwalks were covered in moss. The tour guide said if we were lucky, we would encounter wildlife like Asian vine snakes, pit vipers, geckos, birds, and toads. Unfortunately, we were not able to spot one (maybe because it was the dry season).

The Twin Pagodas

Our next stop was the twin pagodas, Phra Mahathat Naphamethinidon and Phra Mahathat Naphaphonphumisiri, built to honor the 60th birthday of King Bhumibol Adulyadej in 1987, and the 60th birthday of Queen Sirikit in 1992, respectively.

The twin pagodas postcard shot was the image I saw when I did my research on Chiang Mai. It’s the reason why I wanted to go to Chiang Mai. When we arrived at the area, we saw from below how huge the pagodas are. We went up and the place was exploding with colors. More than the twin pagodas, there’s also a fairy-tale-like flower garden.

The place was swarming with bees which we didn’t mind at all. Benches are all over the area where you can sit and just mesmerize at the view – all that’s missing is a bottle of Jack! One of my favorite moments of our trip.

We ate at the cafeteria below before we left. We loved their sweet corn Khanom Krok, which are sweet little coconut rice pancakes.

Hmong Market

We stopped by the Hmong Market. The place is god-sent for foodies like us, they have dried and fresh cherries, plums, mulberries to different kinds of nuts. We bought some intending to bring it home but ended up eating before our trip concluded.

Royal Project Research Station

The Royal Project is a non-profit organization founded by King Bhumibol Adulyadej in 1969 to solve the issues of deforestation, poverty, and opium production by promoting alternative crops in Thailand.

True enough, there were lots of different crops in the area. There was an array of greenhouses by the mountainside, which gives the impression of high-tech agricultural research.

Wachirathan Falls

Our last stop for the day was Wachirathan Falls. The falls have a height of 80 meters. From the pictures, it looks small but up close, it is massive.

There is a large log below the viewing deck, which you can cross to get closer to the falls. Be careful though, it’s quite slippery.

Before we went into our two-hour drive back to the city, we had some nice drinks at the cafeteria.

Thai Massage

We had a couple of hours’ rest when we arrived from our Doi Inthanon tour. After that, we went to a massage center suggested by our host. At 300 Baht, you get a nice foot and body massage.

Paak Dang

Given that it’s our last night in Chiang Mai, we decided to have our dinner at a nice restaurant called “Paak Dang”. The dining area overlooks the Mae Rim River. Their curry and tom yum were excellent! And the view? It was so romantic.

At 4:00 AM the following day, we went to the airport for our flight to Bangkok and then Bangkok to Krabi. Connecting flights from Chiang Mai to Bangkok to Krabi are a couple of thousand Baht cheaper than a direct flight from Chiang Mai to Krabi. It was a bittersweet departure as we did not realize how much we were going to enjoy Chiang Mai. Had we known beforehand, we would have spent more days in the region.

Itinerary & Budget

This is just a sample itinerary and budget. Change things up based on your travel style. Availing of organized tour helps a lot and don’t make our mistake of spending just a couple of days in Chiang Mai. Stay for a week if you can.

Itinerary For Chiang Mai

With so many activities to choose from, I highly suggest you do your research carefully (think of what do you like to see the most). As someone who loves temples, nature, and breathtaking views, I highly recommend the Doi Suthep–Pui National Park and Doi Inthanon National Park tours. You can also visit Chiang Rai and elephant sanctuaries.

Day	Activities
Day 1: Temples & Doi Suthep–Pui National Park	Train to Chiang Mai
	Wat Phan On
	Wat Pan Tao
	Wat Chedi Luang
	Lunch
	Doi Suthep–Pui National Park Tour
	Sunday Night Market Walking Street
Day 2: Doi Inthanon National Park	Doi Inthanon National Park Tour
	Get a Thai Massage
	Dinner at Paak Dang

Budget For Chiang Mai

The estimates below are in American Dollars, Philippine Peso, and Thai Baht, and the exchange rates are based on the closing rates at the time of posting. To convert to your home currency, visit this site. The airfare cost is assuming that you are riding a train from Bangkok and going back by plane, the accommodation cost if you are booking a budget hotel, and the transportation, if you’ll use GrabCar to go around the city.

Regardless of your travel style, Chiang Mai can be very budget-friendly. The expenses that would cost you money are the tour packages.

3-Day Budget	USD	PHP	THB
Airfare	30	1,500	1,005
Accommodation	60	3,000	2,010
Food, Drinks, & Alcohol	40	2,000	1,340
Entrance & Activity Fees	20	1,000	670
Transportation	40	2,000	1,340
Tour Guide & Vehicle Rental	160	8,000	5,360
Random Costs & Souvenirs	40	2,000	1,340
Total	390	19,500	13,065

Final Thoughts

Chiang Mai is one of my favorite places in the world. It’s hard to explain the Chiang Mai experience. It’s authentic, charming, laid-back, and exciting all at the same time. You need to see it for yourself!

★★★★★ Food
Food is as excellent as it was in Bangkok. Although I would say that Bangkok would take the cake for the best Pad Thai. Lots of coffee shops too!

★★★★★ Culture
A Chiang Mai experience is a cultural immersion to the extreme.

★★★★☆ Nature
Except for beaches and marine life, Chiang Mai is surrounded by national parks with interesting topographies and flourishing flora and fauna.

☆☆☆☆☆ Beach, Surfing, & Underwater
No, you are in the middle of a mountain range. However, Southern Thailand has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

★★★★☆ Nightlife
More laidback nightlife compared to Bangkok (which I prefer).

★★★★★ Relaxation
The food, the massage, the nature, all of these will revitalize you.

★★★★★ Activities
Chiang Mai is the center of Northern Thailand. You have endless options on what to do. You can go on a food trip, do a nature trek, see the wildlife, visit tribal villages, or chase temples while maintaining a very laid-back mood. And while you’re at it, bring everyone in the family. People of all ages from different walks of life need to experience Chiang Mai at least once in their lifetime.

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